Trogir and Solin

On our way from Sibenik to Split, we made two stops. Well, initially we had planned only one stop, but since we left Trogir early in the afternoon, we decided to stop at Solin too, before entering Split. The latter turned out to be somewhat of an adventure.
Trogir is, yes you guessed it, yet another town that has captured the attention of the UNESCO world heritage programme. As mentioned, it’s quite hard to step around Croatia without running into one of those places. The old town of Trogir, in it’s totality has been considered worth saving by UNESCO and the old town is indeed cute. The surroundings, not so much: Decayed and not so decayed dockyards amidst other heavy industrial sites made for a rather sad view during our lunch, which we unfortunately decided to happen in a place with sea view. Another rather disconcerting thing in Trogir was the ice cream. Rarely have I eaten that bad an ice cream. (I can recommend Croatian ice cream for any other town we visited though).

The old center of Trogir  seems to come straight from the middle ages with plenty of small convoluted, paved streets, beautiful gates and great old buildings, which are not always all that well mantained. This only added to their charm though, with wild wine and ivy growing through windows and walls.

I can’t say that there was one particular building that stood out in Trogir, it was more the general impression and the consistently old center, that made it a very nice and nowadays pretty rare place to be. The place was car-free for obvious reasons (no car would’ve fitted through those streets) and nobody would’ve thought it out of place if a knight had stepped out of the next door.

Since Trogir wasn’t old enough for us, we went on to visit Solin. Trogir is already within the public transport system of Split, so that we were able to use local public transport instead of an intercity bus. The advantage is clear (they’re cheaper), we found out the disadvantage soon enough: The bus driver was one of the first we met, that did not speak any English. With hands and feet (and the help of pre-translated sentences in the lonely planet) we managed to communicate the request to notify us when we needed to get off. The apparent success came after 35min, when the bus driver gestured us to get off and said “Solin”. Once we got off, our confidence sank though, we were in the middle of nowhere, just besides a motorway feeder. A little disconcerted and without any idea where we actually were we set off to find someone that knew English. We never found someone, that knew English, but we did find someone speaking Italian, who told us we missed our stop and should take the bus back for one more stop, which we did. When we got off, we were still besides the motorway feeder and we had just as much ideas where we were. However in the distance shimmered some ruins, that looked mighty Roman.

We made our way to them and discovered a lovely amphitheater and a little further down a nice Russian guy, that explained us that we were on sight, but that the entrance was about 20min in *that* direction with a rather vague hand wave. To cut through the chase, we never found the entrance. We did however at the very other end of the fields of Roman ruins find the bus station, where the bus driver had originally told us to get off. He’d been right all the time!

The ruins were quite nice to look at, however I did not find them in any particular way spectacular or unique. Possibly their most distinctive feature was the fact that they showed the layout of a complete city: The amphitheater being a little outside the town, as was the cathedral, even though it was closer to it. To see where the bathing rooms were and where the fortress stood in comparison to the other buildings. However all in all, there was very little left of the ruins and you needed a lot of imagination to see much of anything in them (except for the amphitheater).

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One comment

  1. I think Trogir was my favourite place in Croatia. We paid to go to the top of the church tower and it was a dangerous knee trembling experience but some great views from the top. Thanks for the memory nudge!


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