After spending the last day outside Mostar, we decided to explore Mostar today. The old town features several mosques from the 17th century, as well as churches and a synagogue, or so the tourist map wanted us to believe.
We set out along the river towards the famous bridge, depicted above. On the way we saw several mosques, which were open for visits. But not only the mosque was open, also the minarets could be visited. Something I hadn’t seen before. We picked one mosque in the center of the old town, to climb up to the minaret and were rewarded with a lovely view onto the old town and the bridge. The grave yards of these mosques also proved to be lovely, shady spots, with some beautiful tomb stones and very old trees. After a short break there, onwards we walked through the bazar and onto the old bridge. From there on you can continue on to the Aslant bridge, a smaller version of the famous old bridge. The buildings have a very nice, coherent, medieval look to them, however most of them have been destroyed in the recent war and rebuilt afterwards. So what you can see today are rebuilt and renovated buildings and in some cases complete reconstructions including the famous Stari Most bridge, which was destroyed in 1991 and subsequently rebuilt and reopened in 2004.
In general you can still see many traces of the war: Abandoned buildings, burned down buildings and buildings covered in bullet holes. However you can also see that an amazing amount of reconstruction has already taken place and, if you chose to, you could probably visit Mostar’s old town without noticing that there had been a war mere 20 years ago.
Not everything has been reconstructed yet and sometimes we found our map quite misleading: Sights such as the synagogue or the orthodox church were advertised on it, but once you got to the location you would find either an empty slot, a car park or construction works for what could possibly become the new orthodox church.
All in all however, the old town is very charming. We spent a nice day here wandering through the streets, ate well and sat in a few very picturesque parks and shady spots to drink a lemonade. House made. Without sugar. You’ve been warned.