Unfortunately the bad weather that had been expected for this week caught up to us. We had been able to avoid it almost entirely up to then, except for the occasional small downpour in Kotor, but on the morning we were to set out to the Lake the rain was really coming down. Not just the usual rain, but a real rain storm. Strong winds and lots of rain, which soaked us through and through on the very short way from the bus stop to the tourism office.
We reached Virpazar on the border of lake Skadar around 9am and after the somewhat useless visit to the tourism office, we were back outside. Since we didn’t want to stand or hike outside in the strong rain and we hadn’t eaten yet, we decided that this would be the perfect time to have breakfast. The hot coffee/tea and the fresh bread and jam (and the additional pancakes we ordered), where the perfect thing to make us forget the horrible weather. Indeed, we would stay inside for the next 4 hours, playing card games and reordering coffee in regular intervals. Finally, around 1pm, the rain ceased. After a short wait, to make sure the rain wasn’t just trying to lure us out to make us even wetter, we decided to dare leave our refuge and take a look at the scenery.
We had called one of the boat tour provider and while they did not offer any boat tours that day, due to the bad weather, they told us about a small hike we could take. We set out to explore the shore, lamenting the fact that we wouldn’t be able to see the lake from the boat, supposedly the most beautiful way of experiencing it. Nevertheless the scenery we could see from the shore was already breathtaking. The walk we had chosen was actually very nice, rising slightly above the lake and giving us a bird’s eye view of it. After walking for roughly 20min, we could hear boats starting their motors and shortly thereafter we watched a few boats leave the harbour even though we thought they wouldn’t set out today. As much as we had enjoyed the scenery, we decided to turn back; also because we felt that we had stretched our luck already by being outside for half an hour with no rain. An unprecedented event for that day.
The way back was much quicker, as it was downhill, but when we reached the harbour all the big boats we had seen had already left and only one lonely guy remained in the harbour. Luckily, when we approached him, he revealed himself to be the driver of a small boat for hire. After a few discussions and the lightening of our wallets, we set off onto the lake. We had wanted to go on a 2h boat tour, but the guide had been insistent that 60 minutes would be enough, especially considering the price we were willing to pay.
Roughly 10 minutes after we left the shore, the rain set back in with its previous ferocity. Suddenly we were all very happy that the agreed time was “only” 60 minutes. He drove us out onto the lake and up along the shore towards Rijeka Crnojevica. The views were indeed stunning, as the name “Montenegro” already indicates there are a LOT of mountains and when the clouds lifted, you could easily see five to six mountain ranges piling up behind each other on the shores in all directions. Even though the rain seemed to cease a few times, we were soaked and so was our boat. While we enjoyed our trip and the scenery, we probably enjoyed getting back on land and into the next warm restaurant more. There we had a lovely early fish-dinner, before catching the bus back home.