There was one “secret tip” we also did, that was quite cool. Promoted as the second largest library in the world and among the ten best libraries in the world, we went to el Aeneo… Which turned out to be a misunderstanding.. It’s not a library, but a book store. My idea of old books, musty smells and mystery were completely off base. However the bookstore is in an old theater and it is indeed the second largest book store in the world. (Though I never learned which one is supposedly the largest).
The next day we went to recoletas, which is a quarter a bit further away, famous for it’s old cemetery. Again my idea of an old cemetery heavily collided with reality.. It’s like a city, there’s not a single tree in the entire compound. But it illustrates the megalomania of the people nicely. three to four stories high, there’s one mausoleum next to the other with almost no place for the sun to break through. Thank god. It’s again over 30 degrees outside and we’re surrounded by stone walls that reflect the heat. The last thing we’d need is direct sunlight. Next to the cemetery is a nice little church. When one enters, you’re asked to respect the quiet and serenity of the place and be calm. Once you’re in, you’re greeted by two squeaking ventilators. Which is great because even inside the church it’s over 30 degrees, but the serenity ends up to be somewhat lacking. Appended to the church is a small monastery which now is a museum. The museum had little to offer, but the old rooms were nice to look at. The real reason to go see that monastery is to see the cemetery from above. The views were really quite awesome.
From there we made our way back over the main station. Next to the main station is the “monumental tower”, so called because after the war with the British nobody wanted to keep the name “English tower” as it is vaguely similar to the Big Ben. In the evening we went to have dinner in San Telmo, a famous district for food and drinks in Buenos Aires. We asked for a recommendation from the hotel and they told us to go visit “Lo del freddy” just a few streets down (and about 2km for me). When asked what they offered, we were told “A bit of everything”. When we arrived we were facing a giant barbecue. Everything apparently means sausages, beef and pig, served on bread. No vegetables allowed. No other side besides bread either. We seem to have very different definitions of what “Everything” means. The food, however, was cheap, plenty AND nice. A rare combination.
Later that evening at the hostel there free Tango lessons and, even though I knew nothing and probably because I expected nothing, it was quite enjoyable.. Of course, since the class was free it lasted a bit over 40min and if you ever ask me about it, I won’t be able to remember a thing. I swear.